25 April 2025 - Day 54 - Return to where it all started in Tokushima, saying sad goodbyes at the last 8 Temples - 30 km

Today was my last walking day and I wanted to visit all of the 8 remaining Temples and furthermore I wanted to get the train to Tokushima at a decent time, it only goes once every hour. So it was clear that I was going to be short on time. And the nice Taiwanese guy from yesterday wanted to take a picture of us both outside the Inn we were staying at, before leaving.

I then started walking around 7:20 and did so more or less in the opposite direction than 54 days ago. It felt strange but at the same time there were only a few things I remembered from then. The Temples looked nicer because vegetation was greener and flowers were blooming. The weather was cloudy but very windy so a little better than all those weeks ago when it was raining and cold.

Somewhere between Temple 7 and 6, I was looking for a vending machine with some hot coffee when a man ran to me and showed me the way. He even gave me a brochure about the pilgrimage around Awa Town. And just after this nice man, an old woman on her bicycle handed me a power drink which tasted excellent! Big thanks also for this.

Navigation was more difficult since arriving at Temple 10 as I was now doing the pilgrimage in the opposite direction and there are much fewer signs pointing that way. So I needed to check the Henro Helper app on my phone much more often.

And when you think you have seen and heard all the kindness the Shikoku people can give, there comes a new round! I had taken a wrong turn (straight on instead of turning left), but immediately realised I was wrong and then I saw several people sitting around a barbecue in their garden and I had just started to walk in their direction on what was probably a private path. I was going to turn around when they all called out to me that I should come and join them for barbecue! I was petrified, but they insisted and already made a place for me at their table. There was no way around so I joined them and ate some excellent food (grilled lamb dipped in a vinaigrette with lots of garlic, sweet coconut rice, some tea and beer). We talked a little, they were laughing a lot and wanted to give me more and more to eat. I suggested to take a picture and they were all happy about the idea. I then said I really had to go and gave them an osamefuda and a stamp from Luxembourg as a thank you gift.

Even though I was in a hurry to get my itinerary done, this kindness again just felt sooo good!! And I was happy I didn’t turn the invitation down. But I knew the rest of my walk would be a tight match now if I wanted to catch the 15:47 train to Tokushima.

I walked a little faster and did my rituals a little faster but still managed to visit every Temple. At Ryozenji (Temple 1) the Hondo was open and so nicely decorated and lit. It seemed like they had done it just for me. That’s when I started to cry a little. It’s hard to let go after 9 months of planning, training, researching and almost 2 months of walking.

I got my finisher calligrapghy at the stamp office and signed out of the book they keep but didn’t have the time for another certificate. Then I quickly walked to Bando station to take the train back to Tokushima. I sat next to a French man who had also finished the pilgrimage a few days ago (but not in one go). We talked a little about our experiences and the kindness of Japanese and Shikoku people.

When I arrived at Hostel Paq my suitcase was already waiting for me but I needed some time before I opened it. I wasn’t ready for the next part of my trip to start.

Later I went out to get some dinner and there was a nice looking restaurant just next to my Hostel. I had checked on my phone before and knew that it would only open in a few minutes. So I approached the Japanese couple waiting in front of the door whether a reservation was needed and they said yes. But the man went inside and asked the waiter if there was room for one person. The waiter then came out and apologized that they were fully booked. I thanked him and the other people and walked away and then checked on my phone again for alternatives. While I was looking at the phone, the lady came over to me and suggested a restaurant hardly a block away where there was no reservation needed. I thanked her and was very pleased with her choice! Dinner was excellent! Thank you so much!

Tomorrow I will go to Koyasan, that’s where the Henro goes after a successful pilgrimage to “report” about it. The Bus to Osaka leaves at 5:05 so I need to get up early. Therefore: thanks for reading!