6 May 2025 - A few thoughts about my Shikoku Pilgrimage

So a little while after finishing the biggest adventure of my life, I will try and write my little conclusion about this wonderful time.

As you might know, the idea for this was sparked by a four-page article in the National Geographic Magazine. To be concrete it was the June 2024 issue. As soon as I had read the article I knew I needed to do this and started my research right away. First I thought I needed more time to prepare and planned for 2026, but then I decided to start beginning of March 2025.

I then took a lot of time researching the topic on internet sites, in facebook groups and by reading some books. I started doing Japanese lessons on a language app and in July I booked the plane ticket and started researching about clothes and shoes. As of December I started training by doing longer walks with my backpack every day, adding weight until I reached the theoretical weight of 9,3 kg. I started weighing every single item I planned to take with me and prepared an Excel Sheet with all this information. I also started booking the first accommodations by beginning of January and as of February I walked 20-25 km a day on my days off (Friday to Sunday) and at least 10 km a day the rest of the week. All of this with my 9,3 kg backpack of course. These last weeks were very hard because I had my day to day business to attend to as well, like working 5-6 hours a day.

Of course it was very hard to say goodbye to family and friends and my dear Leeloo and to get on that plane that took me away for a lonely trip through an unknown country where everything is different and I don’t even speak the language. But I very soon found out that in general, people are friendly and helpful. From the first day I was lucky enough that I always met people that were looking out for me, giving me a hand, making sure I was alright. It started with Georg, my seat neighbour in the plane to Osaka, who made sure I got on the right bus to Tokushima and ended with Cyril, my fellow Henro, who helped me find the locker I had stored my big suitcase in whilst going to Koya-san. I can’t even count all the kind and helpful people I met along the way, be it pilgrims, hosts, Monks or just people along the roads of Shikoku. Thank you to all of you who make this pilgrimage special.

I don’t know if it’s the destination Japan and especially Shikoku that generates so many warmhearted people that are always prepared to help other people. But it showed me how easy and beautiful things can be if there is a kind and helping hand and respect from both sides. It’s this kindness that doesn’t ask for anything in return except a smile that is so attractive, contagious and heart warming.

It’s impossible to explain this feeling to anyone who hasn’t made the experience but if I had the possibility I would do this pilgrimage again (and again?). Why? It must be so hard to walk so many kilometers per day! You only have one change of clothes? You can’t speak Japanese! …

I found out a few years ago that I really like walking. Walking is what our body was made for. A walk of up to 25 km even if there are some hills is an easy thing to do, also with a backpack. Because walking these kilometers is all you need to do all day. Instead of driving to work for 45-60 minutes, working for 4-5 hours, then taking a lunchbreak, restart working for another 4/5 hours and start the drive home for 45-60 minutes, I just put on my backpack and started walking.

I liked getting up around 6 in the morning, sometimes already smelling the the aroma of breakfast. I loved having my Japanese breakfast with rice, mostly fish, egg, soup and whatever other ingredients our hosts had on their hands.

I enjoyed thanking my hosts by handing them my osamefuda together with a poststamp from Luxembourg and seeing them happy about this little gift.

I liked the goodbyes, bowing and good wishes (ki wo tsukete) from my hosts.

I loved walking the streets of Shikoku, even some of the hard and dangerous mountain trails, and the pleasure of arriving at the next Temple, discovering it for the first time.

I loved doing the rituals at each Temple, especially ringing the big bell and burning the incense. But also entering and bowing, washing my hands, lighting the candle and praying.

I enjoyed going to the Nokyoshou to get my calligraphy and stamp and after a few days I even enjoyed drying the ink on my scroll with the hairdryer provided, as part of the Temple ritual. This hanging scroll has become more and more precious to me as the days passed and the number of calligraphies on it increased. As a souvenir it will remind me of the wonderful time spent in Shikoku with all the easy and hard roads I had to walk to have a finished masterpiece.

I liked to listen to the melody I made for myself while walking: the bell on my kongozue (wooden staff) ringing, my feet touching the ground one after the other, the sound of my kongozue hitting the ground and the ringing of the other bells attached to my backpack. It was my personal rhythm to which I walked for more than 1200 km.

Meeting other pilgrims at the Temples, the Ryokans or on the road was another highlight of my days. Talking, encouraging each other, sharing information, in a few cases becoming friends over the days as we walked together a day or two. Relationships are a precious part of the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

I loved hearing the calls of so many birds I have never managed to see, whose names I don’t know and whose calls I already miss. Together with the smell of the cedar trees that just crept into my nose again and again, so that I immediately sniffed for more, these will always remind me of Shikoku.

It was a delight to arrive at the accommodation in the afternoon after a long or shorter day. I intended to stay only in Ryokans and Minshukus but when they were not available I needed to sleep in a Business Hotel. These were more comfortable because of the private bathroom but there was no warmhearted host waiting for you. So I loved to arrive at my Ryokan/Minshuku for the night, mostly way too early, where the hosts would immediately ask if I was Carole-San from Luxembourg. They would show me the premises and my room, tell me at what time dinner and breakfast were prepared and then send me off to relax, take a shower and bath/onsen.

I enjoyed spending time alone in my room, a simple room with tatami mats, a futon, a small low table and a cushion. I would prepare the next day and recall the events of the day, call my family, write my blog and send/answer messages. I was happy about everybody keeping in touch and showing me I was missed and not forgotten.

I loved eating dinner at the Ryokan, it was always delicious and even if the other guests and/or hosts spoke only Japanese I felt I was welcome and the eye contact between us made all the difference.

After dinner I liked either staying in the dining room talking a bit or else going back to my room to finish my daily “chores” and then go to bed early.

The simplistic life, waking up early, walking all day and going to bed early has a nice and healthy rhythm which worked extremely well for me. I never felt exhausted or didn’t feel like walking. I never once doubted that I might not be able to finish this pilgrimage.

I was very happy to see my dear friend Nathalie when I got back to Osaka. It felt like coming home. I liked the few days spent in Osaka, Tokyo and Kyoto and I loved the reunions with Josée and Yohann. Still, I dearly miss the quiet and serene atmosphere of Shikoku, its people, pilgrims and its Temples. I sincerely hope I will make it back for a second round in the not too distant future. Thanks to everybody I met, my dear Henro friends, I miss you!

Let me end with a few statistics/fun facts:

Km walked according to walking app: 1’347 km

Stairs climbed: about 11’000

Altitude meters climbed: 31’744 m

Tunnels crossed: 16’717 m

Things lost: 3

Things reclaimed after being lost: 3

Blisters: 0

Serious injuries: 0

Illness: 0

Falls: 2

Falls avoided by kongozue: uncountable

Kilos lost: 7

Centimeters the kongozue lost: 9,5 cm

Thanks for having been part of my journey.