14 April 2025 - Day 43 - one Bekkaku and a permanent walk between the line of sun and rain - 26 km

After an energising breakfast I was sad to leave my room with my couch, but I needed to get moving. Especially since a lot of rain had been announced starting in the late morning. So I wanted to do as much as possible of the route before the rain started.

There’s not very much to say about the road, it was rather unspectacular but luckily most of it was on small village roads where I could admire Japanese gardening skills again. In fact almost every house has a strictly tended little garden in front of the house with well-trimmed trees and many many flowers in every colour of the rainbow. It’s a sight for sore eyes!!

Speaking of eyes, as I walked along one of these village roads, I said “arrigato gozaimas” to a lady in her courtyard, the way I always greet the people I meet. She started a conversation in English but was searching for every word. Where do you come from, are you walking alone, where are you staying tonight, do you like Japanese food (which one), do you like onsen,… And then what touched me deep in my heart, she said she’s blind and can’t see how beautiful I am. I hadn’t noticed she couldn’t see. I asked if she wanted to touch my face and she shortly touched my cheeks and was very happy and said I was a wonderful person. She then asked me to wait and went inside her house. When she came back she handed me a piece of ¥500. I was mortified. I couldn’t refuse an ossetai so I accepted it, thanked her several times and kept on bowing even though she couldn’t see it. I am still so touched by this simple kindness!

On the way I visited a small Bekkaku (Enmeiji, Nr 12), and bought my 4th Bekkaku pearl, I saw several monkeys along a path that ran next to the highway but on a higher level.

From the moment I walked out of the Bekkaku, which was about halfway, the race against the rain had begun. Clouds had started to form in the distance but suddenly there were clouds everywhere. So I changed into my raingear that I had already prepared before and moved on. A very strong wind had started to howl and blow from every side so I tried to walk faster, but some of the wind charges were so strong it was hard to stay put or even breathe. A little later I was actually walking exactly underneath a clear line in the sky: to my left direction ocean: clouds and probably rain; to my right direction mountains: blue sky and sun. In the middle: me and turbulent howling winds. Quite spectacular but also very tiring. It was a permanent mix of strong winds, a few drops of rain and warm sunshine.

I walked on as best I could and tried to beat the rain but wasn’t sure if I could turn up at my accommodation one hour too early. And then I decided I didn’t care. Worst case I leave my backpack and walk around some more. I was glad the hostess let me in without any problem and drew me a bath even before 3.

By now the rain has really set in and I am happy to be sitting on my tatami mats in my jukata, waiting for dinner that will be served at 6.

I hope you keep enjoying the read, today was not much to say and not many pictures to take, but tomorrow will be a mountain stage again. See you there!