18 April 2025 - Day 47 - 5 Temples and one surprise reunion - 18 km, more than 500 stairs

The guesthouse was a top spot and the bed was comfy and I was looking forward to a good night’s sleep. Only some guests have strange habits. Shortly after midnight I wake up to noises on the floor and next door in the shower area (again), and this time somebody has just taken a shower and is using the hairdryer. I get up and tell her that it’s a little too late for that kind of noise.

It then takes a while for me to fall asleep again but at 1:15 someone else takes a shower and then uses the hairdryer. This is where I go bezerk and tell the guy off!!

Anyway, after a light and short breakfast I tell Seijo the owner about the story and then after a warm goodbye he waves me off. It’s already warm and Iyadaniji (Temple 71) lies on a hill and there’s about 500 stairs to climb to get to it. I was obviously sweating like hell before I even set foot in the Temple. It was again a pretty mountain Temple, partially built in the rocks on several levels. I took my time to visit and enjoy this atmosphere and was in for a huge surprise when I went down all those stairs again.

Yohann was just getting ready to climb up!! It felt so good to see him again after all these weeks and we gave each other a big hug and had a quick chat. But Yohann had a big day so we said we try to see each other in the afternoon at Temple 75.

I continued to Mandalaji (Temple 72), which is the oldest Temple of the 88 in the Shikoku Pilgrimage, and Shusshakaji (Temple 73) which is situated less than 1 km away. Next on today’s list was Koyamaji (Temple 74) which is small but nice. Unfortunately there is a stone quarry right next to it which takes the small mountain apart and generates a lot of noise that sullies the quiet atmosphere of the Temple.

After a short lunch break I move on to the biggest Temple: Zentsuji (Nr 75), the birthplace of Kukai. What can I say, the Temple grounds are huge and extremely beautiful. A road splits the grounds into two parts, and after having spent quite some time in the western part, I went to the Temple Guesthouse where I stay tonight to leave my backpack there before check-in.

Unloaded I then explored the eastern part which was just as big and impressive. The 3 meter Buddha statue in the Hondo (Main Temple) is awe inspiring, just as the huge 1000 years old camphor tree in the garden and the 5-story Pagoda.

And then I got a message from Yohann that he will be arriving shortly so I wait for him and kind of do the whole tours again. And the magic stays the same. Together we then explore the tunnel under the Daishido which leads to Kukai’s actual birthplace. The tunnel is completely dark and you need to keep your left hand on the wall on your left side at all times in order not to get lost. It was a strange experience and I don’t think I would have had the courage to do this alone. Thanks Yohann for your guidance!!

After this experience we had a short drink together and then it was already time for goodbye. I really hope to see you again, you crazy Breton!

I quickly checked in to the guesthouse, had a short bath in the onsen and then it was already time for a vegetarian dinner. Lights out at 21:00. Tomorrow will start with a morning prayer at 6 and then breakfast.

I hope you still enjoy the read, thanks for reading anyway and thanks for your kind messages. Good night!