19 March 2025 - Day 17 -Temple 36 and onwards to Susaki - 28,5 km, 1200 m altitude gain?!

The Hostel didn’t offer breakfast, so I quickly ate some junkfood I had bought at the conbini (convenience store) yesterday and was ready to leave for my longer walk shortly after 7.

It was another cold but sunny morning and walking along the coast felt exhilarating. The few kilometers to Shoryuji (Temple 36) were done in what felt like no time at all. It was another Temple built in and on the mountain and there were 165 steps to climb until the actual Temple. The Sakura (cherry trees) are just about to start blooming and already now they change the look of every (Temple) garden.

Instead of using the ferry to get from Temple 36 until close to Susaki, I chose the scenic coast road which passes along the coast (no joke!) and at the same time along a small inland sea. The road was about 20 km long and I was a little disappointed because there really were only a few small patches where you could admire the scenic views. About 95% of the road had trees on each side so there was nothing to see but trees.

These 20 km felt quite long and monotonous. Walking alone again, I mainly listened to the music of my walk: my two feet touching the ground one after the other, combined with the sound of my kongozue (staff) touching the street and the bell ringing at every step. It’s a nice melody I like to listen to and it feels like meditation when there are no noises of passing cars that disturb the rhythm.

I arrived at Susaki and my Minshuku around 14:30, too early again, so I went and had a Coke at Mos Burger right next to my inn. I was then let in by a nice young guy who showed me around (toilet, bathroom, bathtime, my room) and then I started my daily routine at the inns.

By routine I mean getting settled in for one night: opening and most of the time emptying my backpack to find clean clothes to wear after the shower. Unfortunately there was no yukata today so I need to put on my own clothes again. Preparing my futon for the night. Checking my Temple things (do I have enough candles and incense in my daily packet for the number of temples tomorrow; do I need to write new osamefuda?), checking the map for tomorrow’s walk, checking the Pilgrimage plan and maps to look for accommodation, reading/answering my messages and writing/calling home. After dinner I usually sit down and write my blog (this is now), make a post on Facebook and publish my step on Polarsteps, then I load up my phone and watch. Between 21:00 and 22:00 I usually go to sleep.

Thanks for reading! Thanks for your support! Oyasuminasai! Good night!