22 April 2025 - Day 51 - Two more mountain Temples (84 and 85) and Temple 86 close to the sea; a nice lady at pilgrim’s rest just before Temple 85 - 23,5 km

Breakfast at the hotel was in buffet form and ok. Luckily it started early so I was on my way just after 7, the day was going to be hot again with two medium sized moutains to climb.

From afar I could already see Yashima mountain looming over me but I was determined to get to the top. And just before starting the climb, two older men talked to me about doing the pilgrimage, counted down the number of Temples remaining, showed me respect for doing this, and wished me good luck and « ganbatte » (do your best).

Once you start from the flat into the mountain it’s like a switch has been turned. There is no inbetween. It’s just going up, very steeply for as long as the mountain is high. Same here. Obviously I was not even halfway up that I was out of breath and sweating like a pig. A few moments to catch my breath, wipe some sweat off my face with my « buff » and on we go.

At the top I discovered a lovely Temple Yashimaji in an open space … and Jay whom I had ‘t seen for a while. We talked a bit but he was on his way out while I just arrived. I did my rituals, took some pictures, the main Temple is one of the oldest still remaining and considered a national treasure, and got ready for a steep dangerous downhill but then I realised I could take the road instead of the very much steeper trail. And I was very happy with my choice because on the road the tree cover opened up several times to a few breathtaking sights over the Seto Inland Sea, Takamatsu, and later the plains where the Gempei War took place in 1185.

At this moment I also saw Mount Goken, where Yakuriji (Temple 85) is situated and for now it looked far away. But after the downhill is before the uphill climb so on the short flat part I tried to recover before the second very steep part. Once you’re out of the village you could use the ropeway for the next 600 m but that would be cheating so I slowly crept forwards.

I was about half way up, out of breath and sweating again when I saw a sign concerning a pilgrim’s rest. And the kind lady Kayoko-San invited me onto her terrace and brought me some cold tea, crackers and selfmade jams. Then we talked about the pilgrimage (via translation app) and she brought me some more presents because this is my first pilgrimage. She told me she’s been doing this for 18 years now, taking care of henros. If you’re on your way to Yakuriji, please make sure to visit sweet Kayoko-San!

It was here that I met Martin from Germany and with whom I had an interesting talk. He’s been doing the pilgrimage in pieces and is quite interested in talking to pilgrims (no matter where they come from), but also to Monks or anyone of the Henro community.

It was hard to get up and back to walking up that mountain after this nice interlude. When I finally got to the top I was rewarded with another mountain beauty, the Yakuriji Temple (Nr 85) is sitting about 100 meters below the peak and thus has a dramatic rocky background.

The way down (just as the way up) was luckily paved so the walk to Shidoji (Temple 86) about 7 kilometers away was not too hard. I had some troubles with my left shoulder again so I was happy to leave my backpack at my Inn for tonight which I passed a few hundred meters before arriving at the Temple.

Here I met Martin again who is faster than me as he uses a bike for the moment, and we had another philosophical and instructive talk. I then visited the Temple which celebrates its 1400th year this year and is situated in a huge garden, almost a jungle.

After my last experience at a Ryokan I am happy that for today I booked a good one again. The hosts are extremely kind and the food is excellent! Now I just need a real good night’s sleep because tomorrow will be another big mountain day.

Thanks for still staying with me and reading my journal. Till tomorrow!