30 March 2025 - Day 28 - Along the windy winding roads - 28,5 km

There was no breakfast foreseen at the very kind old lady’s inn, so Jay and I got ready early. When we left, Jay hugged our hostess, which brought tears to her eyes, and she told us she had had such fun with us yesterday evening. She accompanied us along the street and waved at us until we were past the bend in the road. This kind woman really cherishes her Henro guests. Thank you! You made us feel at home at your place.

Only after about 9 km on the road did we encounter a convenience store where we took a small break and had a little junkfood breakfast. This is also where Jay and I parted. Even though his ankle hurt, he wanted to walk the mountain trail whereas I preferred the scenic (but longer) coastal road. So we said we’d meet later in the day where the two roads merge again.

I walked on and found some impressive coast panoramas, but the wind was driving me crazy the whole day. It was so strong and always blowing from upfront that it was very hard to walk straight and keep my kongozue in the right place.

I had to walk four tunnels today, luckily two of them were just for pedestrians so I felt very safe and very alone. But three of the tunnels felt like a wind tunnel, where aerodynamics are tested. The wind blew so hard against me and the road was slightly uphill in the 915 m pedestrian tunnel that I thought it would blow me out on the wrong side again. I guess I’ll have to work on my aerodynamics.

I walked through some fishing villages where it smelled very fishy and took a break for a Yohann-coffee. After the last tunnel (without any wind!) I took a small lunch break in a park with a Koi-pond and surrounded by lots of blooming Sakura and then I came to the place where the mountain trail reconnected with my route. You can imagine my surprise when Jay actually walked out of that trail the exact same moment as I did!

So we walked the rest of the way together again, but in Tsushime, Jay finally took a taxi to Uwajima, which was another 20 km away, because his ankle was giving him pain again.

The Business Hotel where I am staying tonight doesn’t have a restaurant, so I wanted to go out and buy some food nearby and when I left my room, Cyril was entering the room next to mine! We decided to go for dinner together. The sushi/sashimi were delicious and Cyril had a good conversation with the owner and sushi chef. I tried to understand a few words but luckily Cyril translated most of it.

Earlier the receptionnist had helped me make a few more reservations so now I have almost booked until the end of the trip. That will be a relief!

This permanent fight against the wind has made me very tired and I am looking forward to a shorter stage tomorrow. Thank you for reading and spending time with my thoughts on this trip.