4 March 2025 - Day 2 - Temples 7-10 raining hard - 22,5 km

When it rains it pours they say. So when I left my inn just after 7, it had just started to rain but it was getting stronger by the minute.

The innkeeper had given me and the oher Japanese guest an excellent dinner (fish and prawn soup with udon noodles) the evening before and had made the mistake of asking me if I needed help finding accommodation further on. I was only half prepared and obviously jumped on the occasion, but I think I strained their patience as it took some time until we found the (hopefully) right spot in Mugi next week.

The walk in the rain back from my inn to Temple 6 was unfortunately no pleasure, neither was most of the rest of the walk.

Temple Jurakuji was close to number 6 and I visited it shortly, no reason to linger and get even wetter. Onward to Kumadaniji and Horinji, unfortunately: same - same.

On the way I met with Mike from the Netherlands, so we walked together for the rest of the day. The rain was still falling but at least I had company and this took my mind off the water dripping persistently

from the sky.

Together we visited Sumotori-ya, the pilgrim shop next to Temple 10, where we had a very warm welcome. Satoshisan recognised me when I entered the shop. I had ordered my stamp book and scroll beforehand and told him I was coming to buy the rest of my outfit: the staff and the vest, or to be correct: the kongozue and the hakui.

Satoshisan also suggested we leave our bagpack there as the road to Kirihataji comprises 333 steps and we had to walk past his shop on our return anyway. The temple was again very interesting and beautiful, but the rain forbade us to really enjoy the place. The nice Monk lady who stamped and calligraphed our books was already very old and bent with arthritis. I wonder how she managed the beautiful calligraphs with these sorry hands.

On our way back and onwards toward Temple 11, Satoshisan offered us some tea and a few tips for the next days. I parted with Mike close to my inn for tonight while he pushes on before returning to his accommodation. If all goes well, we’ll see each other tomorrow on our way up the muddy mountain slopes.

But that’s a story for tomorrow.

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