8 April 2025 - Day 37 - 4 Temples in Matsuyama - 19,5 km

After the good breakfast in the big dining room, together with some 15 other henros, I left with Jay around 8 for a shorter walk with 4 Temple visits.

Sairinji was located in a beautiful garden with a pond of several huge koi. The roofs with their pretty decorations at the Temples (but also the roofs of lots of normal houses) fascinate me each and every time. So I keep taking pictures af many small details.

Jodoji Temple was only a short distance away, and on our way there, we visited a conbini to get some coffee and food. As we were unloading our packs in front of the shop, an old Japanese man asked us where we come from and if we are walking henros. The man spoke rather good English, he said he was 96 years old! He was very proud to be talking to us and he asked us for an osamefuda (name slip) which also states the country of origin. It feels so good that so many “locals” of any age take pride in talking to foreign henros and help keeping the pilgrimage alive.

On our walk to Hantaji, we walked past a building that looked like a flying saucer. While Jay checked out what building it was, a man approached me and gave me a small clay figurine, sitting in a praying position. I thanked him for this souvenir. At Temple 50, Jay pointed out that there were a few of these figurines standing next to the Main Temple. I was wondering whether the man had given this figurine to me so that I should put it there? But I couldn’t part with it. Am I a bad person? Should I have left it at that Temple? Should I leave it at another Temple? May I take it home as a souvenir?

Hantaji was built on an open space with a lot of trees, among others a few Sakura trees. The blooming season is coming to its end so with every little windblow, the Sakura leaves fly through the air like snowflakes. It’s a sad but pretty event.

Ishiteji (Temple 51) was the last Temple on our list for today. It is a very big and very old Temple with lots of things to discover. Like a cave/tunnel system that goes from behind the main Temple building through the mountain for a few hundred meters. On the other side there is a Burmese Stupa, but I don’t think the tunnel ended in Burma…

I continued on my own to my accommodation and just next to it I visited Isaniwa Shrine, where a wedding had just taken place. My hosts welcomed me warmly, as always. And at dinner the husband showed me pictures of Shikoku from about 50 years ago. Impressive! I believe I understand now why there are so many stone walls that used to be terraces in the forests. 50 years ago there were no forests on the mountains. Only terraces where mainly sweet potatoes were harvested by hard hand labour.

I hope you enjoyed my little essay today, and hope to see you again tomorrow on this page.