9 April 2025 - Day 38 - Out of Matsuyama and to the ocean (and back) - 27 km

After a restless night followed a stressful pre-breakfast and breakfast was followed somehow by a dull morning. But first things first: yesterday evening, after talking with Kei (the nice guy from Okinohama Inn) about how to organise my trip to Koyasan following the end of the pilgrimage - oh yes, the end is near! - I found out we had made a big mistake a few weeks ago when we booked the hotel for tonight. Instead of it being north of Matsuyama, it somehow has moved south of Matsuyama, which is the opposite direction of where I am headed.

Not knowing where I would sleep tonight has obviously had its effect on my sleep. Kei had suggested yesterday evening that I contact some of the bigger Ryokan in the area this morning but I remembered that they were all full a few weeks ago.

Still, after explaining the problem, I asked my hosts before the (rather late) breakfast if they could make some calls. They tried to help me as best they could but still I was stressed and not happy about the outcome. I finally asked if they could book a hotel 10 km further than I could possibly walk (I would need to take the train), and this time it worked. I was kind of happy but not really but went back to my room to finally get going, when Kei called me with a proposition: I can sleep at a friend’s house in Matsuyama so today I should walk as far as I can/want to. Kei will pick me up and drive me back to Matsuyama and tomorrow he will drive me back to where he picked me up. Wow! What a cool proposition!! Of course I accepted!

I then needed to tell my hosts to cancel the booking they had just made for me, which they did. I left then at 8:30 with a bad taste in my mouth. There was still the original booking that needed cancelling…

I walked towards Taisanji (Temple 52) but was not concentrated and missed a few turns so I needed to make some detours. At a conbini I stopped for a toilet break and bought a little food and as there were no other customers, I asked the young woman behind the counter if she could cancel my hotel reservation. Which she did.

With my mind a little clearer I walked on and was soon asked by a kind man on a bicycle if he could help me. I said I was going to Temple 52 and that I thought it was this way. He confirmed, told me he lives around the corner, and wished me good luck and be careful.

Getting to Taisanji was quite hard at the end, there was a very steep climb between the first gate and the temple but I did make it in spite of the not so good day I had. The Temple itself was really nice, some parts were extremely old but in excellent shape, but I had to check twice for the Stamp office which was located kind of outside the Temple. I didn’t want to miss my calligraphy!

By this time I was back in my rhythm and the walk to Enmyoji (Temple 53) was a short one. Here I bumped into Nicolas the Swiss guy I had met shortly with Josée a few days ago and a Dutch woman. The Temple was in the middle of town, bordered by a busy street but in itself really beautiful.

After the two Temples for today I decided to walk to Iyo-Hojo Station, 10 km and more or less where the hotel was supposed to be, and let Kei pick me up. So that’s what I did. On the way I finally came back to the coast, this time the northern coast to the inland sea, which is not as wild as the southern coasts I have seen before.

An English guy who was watering his garden stopped and asked me where I came from so we had a little chat. When I finally arrived at the station, I didn’t need to wait for long for Kei to pick me up. Sadly we drove along the exact road I had walked on for several hours, but in the opposite direction. It’s frustrating to see how the hard work of several hours can be “destroyed” in just a few minutes…

After checking in with Kei’s friend, after a nice shower and a short chat with my dear husband, Kei picked me up for dinner. We walked a few minutes to an excellent restaurant. After the good food, Kei wanted to show me one of his favourite bars, Guest House Brew Den, and frankly, that was my kind of place!! Excellent home brewed beer, my music (Grunge etc), and a nice barman. So if you’re wondering why I am posting my blog so late: I’ve been out having a good time!! Thank you Kei!!

Enough for now, I need my sleep. Thanks for reading.